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Swimming Pool Liner FAQ / Hot Tub Repair F.A.Q

Hot Tub FAQ's

Q. My topside control panel is showing the error message "FL" or "FLO" and will not heat.

A. Try cleaning the filter and resetting your spa first (by shutting the breaker Off for a few minutes then back On). This error message is commonly associated with a lack of water flow. If the error message will not go away even without the filter in place, please contact our spa repair specialists at LMR Pool And Spa LLC (803) 522-8561

Q. My spa keeps tripping the circuit breaker.

A. Be sure to reset the breaker completely by pushing it all the way into the OFF position before attempting to flip it back on. If the breaker will not stay ON, you may have a faulty heating element, jet pump, circulation pump, circuit board, Ozone, or even a bad breaker. A faulty spa component is most likely the culprit of a tripped breaker.

Q. After I drained and refilled my spa, the pumps do not work. I can hear them but there is no movement.

A. Your spa may be experience an air lock, in which air gets trapped in the pump and is unable to catch a prime. To avoid this we recommend filling your spa with the garden hose inside the skimmer or "filter area" to avoid an Air Locked condition. Remove the filter and insert the garden hose into the filter well. In the event of an air lock try draining your spa and refilling it through the skimmer. 

Liner FAQ's

Q. My liner has just developed wrinkles, what does this mean?

A. This indicates there is water under the liner caused by ground water or damage to the liner.

Q. My liner is soft and spongy in the corners, what caused it?

A. This indicates there is water under the liner caused by ground water or damage to the liner.

Q. How do I remove water from behind my pool liner?

A. Locate the “vacuum pipe” if your pool is equipped with one, and ensure it is clear and if it does not self drain, then you can suck water from this pipe to remove from behind the liner.

Q. The water has drained from behind the liner but now the liner has wrinkles that I cannot move, what do I do?

A. You need to contact a liner professional as they may need to partially drain your pool to re-position the liner and remove the wrinkles for you. However, many times this is not possible in severe cases. Other reasons that wrinkles may not be removable include the age of the liner as well as a uniquely shaped pool.

Q. Does the liner moving cause any permanent damage?

A. Depending on the age of the liner. If the liner is old and brittle, then as the water behind drains away, it may cause enough stress to tear the liner.

Q. My pool liner has water behind it. Do I need to buy a new one?

A. No, most liners that are not too old will be able to be re-fitted by a pool liner professional. In a worst case scenario, as long as the pool still holds water, wrinkles may safely be left alone until a new liner is eventually installed.

Q. Is my floating liner covered by my pool liner warranty?

A. No, the floating liner is not covered by the liner warranty, nor is it a fault of installation. It is usually a result of an extreme weather condition causing abnormal "hydro-static pressure" and therefore may be covered by insurance. Check with your individual policy details or talk to your insurance company. Other issues resulting from ground water and hydro-static pressure may include "pits" or sink holes in the pool floor. This is common especially during a new liner installation if the pool has to be drained for an extended period of time. The pool floor may seem to be alright, but in rare cases once the pool is filled back up, pits or sink holes may develop due to ground water.

Pump and Filter FAQ's

Q. I can see air bubbles inside my pump basket.

A. A small bubble or 2 hovering underneath the clear plastic pump lid is generally OK. However, a steady flow of small air bubbles or other larger "flowing" air pockets are a definite sign of an air leak coming from the suction side of the pump. Common causes are; Old or brittle lid gasket, loose or cracked PVC fittings and connections. As a temporary fix, you may apply clear silicone to all PVC connections that are on the front of the pump or on the "suction side" while the pump is on and running. The pumps suction should pull the silicone into any loose fittings or leaks thus sealing the air leak (hopefully). If the bubbles do in fact go away, turn the pump off and let the silicone properly cure before turning the pump back on.

Q. Can air bubbles damage my pump?

A. If severe enough, yes. A large amount of "flowing" air bubbles can damage a pump fairly quickly. Air leaks can cause "cavitation" or violent water turbulence that works against the spinning rotation of your pump. An electric pump motor cannot operate safely under these conditions.

Q. The PSI gauge on my filter is showing a higher amount of pressure than what is normal and/or the jets in my pool do not seem as strong as usual.

A.Try back washing or cleaning your filter first. With all your valves in the OPEN position, remove the pump lid and take out the pumps basket. At this time, your PSI gauge should be reading at 0 psi. If your PSI gauge is still showing a pressure reading other than 0 psi, odds are that the gauge has failed and should be replaced. If your PSI gauge does in fact show a reading of 0 psi, you may have a clogged pipe or are in need of some routine maintenance. Please contact a pool repair specialist - LMR Pool And Spa LLC (803) 522-8561

Q. After back washing my sand filter, the PSI gauge is still reading at a higher pressure than normal.

A. If you have not had a sand change within the last 5 to 7 years, you are probably due for a routine sand change. Over time, each grain of sand erodes into a smooth pebble. This causes the sand to compress and inhibit the flow of water through the filter, giving you a constantly high pressure reading.

Q. I noticed a small amount of water leaking around my pump, possibly coming from in between the electric motor and the plastic pump housing.

A. This is a strong indication of a failed pump seal. The pump seal is responsible for preventing water from leaking into the electric pump motor. The longer this type of leak persists, the more damage it will do to your pump motor. Maintaining a balanced pH will help to extend the life of a pump seal.

Water Chemistry FAQ's

Q. How can I increase the life of my pool and spa equipment?

A. Maintaining balanced water chemistry is the most important factor when focusing on equipment longevity. pH levels below 7.2 are considered "Acidic" and will eat away at everything it comes into contact with including metal, gunite or concrete walls, pumps, salt systems, etc.. Low pH levels can destroy a pool or spa within a matter of months if not properly maintained. High pH levels on the other hand are considered to be "hard" and usually cause scaling or sediment build up. Cloudy water is usually an indicator of high pH. Although there are many factors such as Total Alkalinity, Cyanuric Acid, and Calcium Hardness levels that are equally important to pH, water chemistry should be closely monitored and adjusted as frequently as possible.

Q. What should my pH level be?

A. A proper pH level should fall between 7.2 and 7.8. High pH can reduce the effectiveness of chlorine and other sanitizers, while low pH is considered "acidic" and can deteriorate your pool and spa as well as shorten the life of corresponding equipment.

Q. What should my Total Alkalinity (TA) level be?

A. A proper TA reading should be between 80 and 120 parts per million (PPM). A proper TA level will help to stabilize your pH and reduce pH fluctuations. Low TA can cause your pH to drastically swing up or down as low TA reduces the ability of your pH to resist changes caused by water contaminants.

Q. How does Cyanuric Acid (CYA) or "Stabilizer" work? And are there any negative effects of stabilizer?

A. Cyanuric Acid or "stabilizer" has an important role in an outdoor pool that uses chlorine as a sanitizer. UV from sunlight can quickly destroy Chlorine within a few hours, making it ineffective towards killing bacteria and sanitizing your pool water. In theory, CYA or stabilizers form a protective barrier around the chlorine molecule, protecting it against UV rays from sunlight. However, if your CYA levels are too high (above 100 ppm) it can cause a condition known as "chlorine lock". Chlorine lock is a condition when the barrier CYA forms around the chlorine molecule is so great that it actually prevents the chlorine from doing its job, essentially "locking" the active chlorine in the water. The only guaranteed method to lower CYA levels is by adding fresh water, either by backwashing your filter frequently, or partially draining your pool and adding fresh water (but be extremely carefully draining your pool even if only a few feet). There are now some new products on the market that claim to reduce CYA levels without having to add fresh water, however we only recommend using fresh water to reduce CYA as fresh water is a guaranteed solution.